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I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to visit Madrid. I’ve been wanting to visit for YEARS. Given the number of countries I’ve visited that many people have never heard of, I don’t know how it’s taken me over 30 years to board a 2-hour flight to Madrid! In Spain, I’d only really spent time in Barcelona before.
Luckily, that’s changed: I just spent a week cat-sitting in Madrid, and now I’m singing its praises. I’m sure every long-term traveller has that ‘I can’t believe I’ve not been there yet’ city!
The opportunity to cat-sit came up four days earlier, and I jumped on a flight. I stayed in the south of the city in the Piramides neighbourhood, which isn’t super popular (more residential than full of attractions) but I recommend it as a quiet, safe area for solo female travellers like myself. It’s well connected to the centre with the Metro and buses.
In this blog, I’m going to help you have a wonderful 5 days in Madrid, Spain with my itinerary. Enjoy!
Day 1 – city centre
For my first day in Madrid, I did what I do during my first day in any new city: a free walking tour! I use Guruwalk to find these; I did this one, and there are tons of others also with good reviews.
We had a fantastic guide who managed to turn complex history into fun exercises, one including a fake crown she’d been carrying around in her bag. Personally, I loved the approach as I now remember exactly what went down with Napoleon, the King of Spain and his brother!
We started the tour at Puerta del Sol, which is somewhere you need to visit regardless of whether you take a walking tour.
The Sun Gate is located in Centro, beside the El Oso y el Madroño statue which you’ll learn all about on any walking tour. Knowing some Spanish, I was aware that oso means bear. But what on earth was a madroño, and why did he appear to be eating it?
Turns out the madroño is a strawberry tree (well, sort of. That’s how it’s translated into English but the madroño is technically a different type of fruit that grows on a tree rather than a vine). The bear and tree are the symbol of Madrid, telling the story of land and resource compromises in the 13th century.
Another fun spot the tour visited was El Madroño, a bar serving tapas alongside sweet madroño liquor. A serving in a chocolate wafer cup costs just €3.
Getting there: ride the Metro to Sol station.
Another place you can’t miss is Plaza Mayor, the main square of Madrid. Always busy and lively, it’s the oldest part of the city, dating back to Habsburg rule.
Plaza de La Villa is another historic square to include in your Madrid itinerary. Don’t miss Jardín del Convento, at the back of Corpus Christi Monastery, where nuns sell typical Spanish sweets. A box of marzipan could be a perfect souvenir!
A famous market in this area is Mercado de San Miguel but, truth be told, it isn’t my favourite market in Madrid. I walked through and, although I can’t deny the food looks great, it’s overpriced and VERY busy, mainly with foreign tourists.
Keep reading and I’ll tell you which markets I prefer.
Famous calamari sandwich
Our walking tour guide told us about the most popular place for calamari ‘bocadillas’: Bar la Campana, just off Plaza Mayor. For such a central location, I couldn’t believe the sandwich was only €4.50. It was delicious with fresh, soft squid.
Initially, the long line put me off. Luckily, it moves fast. Almost everyone is ordering the same thing so you’ll tap your card and instantly receive a warm, crunchy roll.
Barrio de las Letras
Barrio de las Letras, or the Literary Quarter, dates back to the 17th century when the writers of the Spanish ‘Golden Age’ called it home. The famous street is Calle Huertas, where you can find a literary quote from Don Juan Tenorio, by Zorrilla, on the ground.
Other than that, visit for characterful alleyways, cosy coffee shops and historic taverns.
Royal Palace of Madrid
The largest palace in Europe, with a not-so-modest 3,418 rooms, sits in the heart of historic Habsburg Madrid.
If you choose to go inside, expect to spend 1-2 hours admiring the decadent Throne Room, the Grand Staircase carved from a single piece of marble, and the Royal Armory filled with weapons and treasures.
Tickets start from €16. It’s open from 10am-7pm (5pm on Sundays) with last entry an hour before closing. The last 2 hours offer free entry for EU citizens.
Almudena Cathedral
Product of 100 years of construction beginning in 1883, Almudena Cathedral is the most important religious site in the capital.
Entry is free (with donations encouraged), or you can pay €7 to enter the museum and access scenic views from the dome.
Temple of Debod
Having spent the last three months in Egypt exploring temples and tombs daily, I decided to skip this spot. If you haven’t just been to Egypt, definitely pay a quick visit. It’s free, and I hear the sunset views over Madrid are spectacular. On a clear day, it may be worth timing Debod Temple with sunset.
Churros (and porras) at San Giles
You can’t visit Madrid and not eat churros, can you? There are hundreds of churrerias all around Madrid, but the most famous is San Giles – for a reason.
San Giles has a few cafes in the city centre. Although they serve churros and chocolate to-go, I decided to sit down to savour the moment… and make the least mess possible (although I always find a way).
I paid €6.20 for four churros and a steaming mug of rich chocolate. Not too spenny!
Tip – don’t just sit down. Place your order inside, then wait in line for a table and give the waiter your ticket. Luckily, it only took a few minutes and, by the time I sat down, my order was almost ready.
Day 2 – south Madrid (on a Sunday if possible!)
The reason I suggest a Sunday is to visit the mesmerising Rastro Market that sprawls the streets, selling antiques, homeware, books, jewellery, clothing and many, many other things you don’t need but DO want.
About the Sunday Market
Dating its origins back to the 15th century, El Rastro Flea Market is the biggest and oldest market in Madrid. Even if you plan to buy nothing (I literally couldn’t because I was travelling with hand luggage), it’s worth a wander.
There’s plenty of tasty food surrounding the market. I found two excellent cafes specialising in tostas (toast) topped wth different ingredients. These were La Invencible (a takeaway place where I had the cheese, walnut and marmalade one below) and Bar En Ca Kiko, where you can stand while tucking in.
Next, I suggest wandering away from the market toward…
La Latina
This is one of the most popular areas of Madrid for good reason.
The main eating street is Calle de la Cava Baja where you can find eateries including Taberna La Concha (the cheesy bacon squid is to die for!) and Casa Lucas. I’d just eaten so wandered the colourful calle, browsing at Desperate Literature, an adorable bookstore with books in Spanish and English.
La Latina is home to one of my favourite markets in Madrid: Mercado de Cebada. Compared to touristic Mercado de San Miguel, the prices are lower, and the guests are mainly local. Bruse up on your Spanish and get stuck in!
Some of the top things to do in La Latina include visiting San Francisco church and its pretty gardens, soaking up the vibe at Plaza de los Carros, learning about Madrid’s origins at free museum, San Isidro, and visiting the rose gardens at the Angolan Prince Garden.
Speciality coffee fans will be happy at Alchemy in La Latina.
Pez Tortilla
There are several branches of Pez Tortilla; I’ve visited a few because it’s my favourite place to eat in Madrid. That gooey tortilla!
The one in La Latina is always busy so you’ll have to eat wherever you can find a spot to perch. It’s worth it.
They only serve tortilla, croquettes and craft beer. There are a couple of tortilla flavours to choose from; I can vouch for the brie and truffle, and the sundried tomato and parmesan. Sadly, they were out of truffle croquettes but I loved the chipirones en su tinta (octopus in red wine) ones.
Lavapiés
Within walking distance to La Latina, this up-and-coming barrio is colourful and vibrant. With an international demographic and plenty of excellent South Asian restaurants, there’s plenty to do, see and eat in Lavapiés.
If you have time, stop at Mansilla Libros y Café on your way between La Latina and Lavapiés. It’s a gorgeous cafe with retro clutter and quality coffee.
Don’t miss Mercado Anton Martin, another of my favourite food markets in Madrid. It’s a hub of noise, colour, sights and smells, packed with locals eating and drinking, whatever the time of day.
I tucked into a portion of six croquettes with flavours such as chorizo, truffle, cod and squid. Delightful! I forgot which stand I bought them from, but I’m sure you’ll find plenty of options.
Finish the day at Museo del Prado (free entry)
I’m aware it’s already been a long day! But if you want free entry at Madrid’s top galleries, you generally have to wait ’til the end of the day.
The exception is Sundays when Reina Sofia is free in the middle of the day. As I have suggested timing this day of the itinerary to catch the Sunday Market, I suggest the Prado today.
Here are the museums’ free entry times:
- Museo del Prado (classic art) – 6-8pm (Mon-Fri), 5-7pm (Sundays).
- Reina Sofia (contemporary art) – 7-9pm (Mon-Fri), 12.30-2pm (Sundays).
Technically, you can visit them both in the same day but I chose to spread them out.
Day 3 – Northern neighborhoods and El Retiro Park
After my day exploring the southern areas of La Latina and Lavapiés, I spent another day in the north, checking out Malasaña and Chueca, before spending a relaxed afternoon in El Retiro Park.
I started the day at this hidden gem by taking the blue Metro Line 1 to Ríos Rosas station and walking 2 minutes to…
Museo Geominero
A fossil museum? Stay with me here. Museo Geominero is a hidden gem in the north of Madrid. Not only is it home to a stunning collection of gems and crystals, but the building looks like THIS. Oh, and there’s a T. rex head. Oh, and it’s free!
I was asked for ID on entry but they accepted a photo of my passport as I didn’t have it on me.
Chamberí
This is a pleasant neighborhood you’ll wander through as we continue to our next stop. Plaza de Olavide (with a lovely fountain) in the Trafalagar suburb is an ideal spot to people-watch, with a phenomenal croissant from Alma Nomad Bakery in hand.
A quirky addition to your itinerary is Estación Museo de Chamberí, an abandoned ‘ghost’ Metro station that’s now a free museum.
Malasaña
This is one of Madrid’s most popular neighborhoods. Malasaña is an area that’s trendy and gentrified these days, with plenty of brunch cafes and lots of English spoken. It’s certainly not the only place you should hang out in Madrid. But it’s beautiful with some worthwhile spots to visit including…
If you love finding free things to do, head to Madrid History Museum inside this beautiful pink building. It’s fairly small, and certainly not the best history museum I’ve ever visited, but it’s well worth a quick visit when in Malasaña.
Like many Madrid museums, they’ll likely ask you to put your bag in a locker. If you don’t have a Euro coin, ask at the desk for a plastic one.
Walk along Gran Via to Chueca
You can’t miss is Gran Via, home to some of the most impressive architecture in Madrid. Even if you don’t have cash to splash, wander the avenue lined with shopping malls, theatres and fancy hotels.
The epic road connects the south of Malasaña to the south of Chueca. At the end of Gran Via, you can find the famous 18th-century Cibeles Fountain featuring the Greek goddess, Cybele, aboard a lion-pulled chariot.
Chueca
From Malasaña, you’re within easy walking distance to another cool barrio, Chueca. This is the LGBT+ area, as even the Metro station proudly proclaims. The area is known for nightlife, but is just as worth visiting during the day.
It’s known for its international cuisine, nice coffee shops and wide plazas where you can eat outside in the sun. One lovely cafe where I whiled away an hour is Bucolico with excellent cafes and coffee.
Two epic markets in this area are Mercado San Anton (not to be confused with Mercado de Anton in Lavapiés) and San Ildefonso. Both have authentic Spanish food, plus a little international street food, too.
El Retiro Parque
From Cheuca, you’re just a 15-minute walk to Madrid’s biggest and most beautiful park, El Retiro, designed for the 17th-century kings of Spain. Full of peacocks, rose gardens, a stunning Crystal Palace modelled on the one in London, and a boating lake, you could easily spend half a day here.
I spent hours but still didn’t find the Isabella II Fountain dedicated to the Galapagos tortoises (something I’d have liked, after visiting the Galapagos last year). The park is also home to the only statue in the world dedicated to Lucifer, AKA the devil!
I recommend entering El Retiro via the northern side near Checua, then exiting via the south, rather than going back on yourself.
Try to squeeze in the Botanical Gardens if you have time. Entry is €4 or free on Tuesday mornings.
When you leave, you’ll be close to our final stop of the day…
Museo Reina Sofia (free entry)
Since I suggested seeing classic art at the Prado yesterday, I suggest seeing Madrid’s top contemporary art museum today.
Free entry is from 7pm-9pm every day but Sunday. It gets busy, so I suggest arriving 30 minutes earlier to get in line.
There are four floors at Reina Sofia, and I spent the full two hours there before it closed. The ground floor spotlights the lives and work of specific Spanish artists, while the middle floor holds famous 20th-century paintings by Dali, Picasso, Miro and more. The top floor is dedicated to art relating to events in the last 30 years.
Day 4 – food tour or cooking class
A culinary day in Madrid is not time wasted!
I took a fantastic food tour with Culinary Backstreets, exploring neighborhoods like Chamberí and visiting everything from traditional grocers to modern restaurants that focus on tasting menus. I learnt lots about Madrid in the process.
Another option could be a cooking class. I love doing these when I travel. Try a paella and sangria class or maybe a learn how to make your own tapas with a professional chef. There are plenty of affordable half-day classes around the €60 mark.
Day 5 – day trip to Toledo
There are several day trips from Madrid you can take, but you can’t go wrong with Toledo. The former capital of Spain is a beautiful city that’s easy and affordable to reach from Madrid.
With three religions practised since ancient times, there’s stunning architecture in the different houses of worship.
Things to do in Toledo:
- Take walking trails outside of the walls to admire the imperial city, such as along or below Alcantara Bridge
- Admire San Servando, the 11th-century castle in Toledo
- Explore busy Plaza de Zocodover, then get lost in the hidden backstreets to compare
- Walk the Jewish Quarter with its quiet streets and historic shops
- Go inside the grand monastery, San Juan de los Reyes
- Tour the religious houses: Primada de Toledo (cathedral), Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (mosque) and Santa Maria la Blanca (synagogue).
Getting to Toledo from Madrid: I took a bus for €12 return with the Alsa network. These depart every 30 minutes from Estación de Plaza Elíptica in the south of Madrid.
There’s a ticket machine beside the booth where the buses depart but, in peak season, there’s a long line so you’re better off buying an open ticket on the website. The journey takes 50 minutes.
There’s also a Renfe train from Atocha station that connects Madrid and Toledo in around 35 minutes. Buy tickets on the Trainline website.
Getting around Madrid
I found Madrid to be a very walkable city and not as spread out as I’d expected. I only took 8 public transport journeys in a week (and no taxis), sometimes spending a whole day exploring on foot. I definitely had some 30k step days… I AM that annoying friend on holiday who wants to walk everywhere!
Your options for exploring Madrid include:
Metro: with over 300 stations and 15 lines, this is very efficient and affordable. Buy a Metro card for €2.50 and top it up. I paid €10 for 10 journeys, including the card. One thing to note is that doors don’t always open automatically at stops; don’t miss yours like I once did!
Buses: your Metro card is also valid on buses, although you can also tap to pay with a regular bank card. Journeys show on Google Maps. Overall, buses are easy to navigate.
If you need to take a taxi, download Uber, Cabify or Bolt.
Is Madrid expensive?
As ever, it depends where you’re from. Compared to London, for example, you will find Madrid quite affordable.
Some average prices:
Speciality coffee: €2-3.
Hot chocolate and four churros: €6.
Tapas in a local market: €2-3 a piece.
Restaurant main dish: €10-15.
How long to stay?
Although I was there for a week, I had some downtime and spent time with the cats I was sitting. I think 5 days in Madrid is perfect because you’ll have plenty of time to see the highlights without rushing.
What I love about Madrid is the atmosphere and energy with countless bustling bars, restaurants and food markets. I suggest you spend time soaking it up, rather than just ticking off highlights. To be honest, you could spend a lifetime here. Disruta (enjoy)!
Where to stay
I would avoid the city centre as it could be slightly hectic and noisy at night. Malasaña, Chueca, La Latina, and Lavapiés are all lively places to stay. However, they’re all suffering from gentrification so you might be better off staying somewhere more residential, given how easy Madrid is to navigate.
I can vouch for the Piramides area near Puente de Toledo bridge. I hear the only slightly dodgy area is south of the river, but I don’t think you’ll end up there accidentally.
