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During my recent trip to Spain, I took an epic food tour in Madrid with Culinary Backstreets. It was my second tour with them after exploring both sides of the Bosphorus with them two years ago in Istanbul.
I loved that first tour because it felt more like a historical deep dive during which we roamed a large part of the city, discovering neighbourhoods I wouldn’t have otherwise known about. I was hoping their Madrid tour would be the same, and I wasn’t disappointed.
Much as I adore Spanish food, I think it’s a cuisine that suits groups and pairs better than solo travellers. After eating a whole portion of patatas bravas to myself, I’m stuffed and can’t manage much more.
I was visiting Madrid solo for a cat-sitting opportunity, and I wanted to experience (okay, eat!) as much as possible. Joining a food tour was ideal as a solo traveller because I had a group to share things with, allowing me to sample more than I would alone.
Madrid food tour with Culinary Backstreets
I was lucky to visit Madrid when I did because Culinary Backstreets had just recently set up a tour there. At the time of writing, they have one tour: Markets, Tapas and Traditions, but you can check their website for the latest offerings.
Here are some of the highlights of the tour…
Not saving the best ’til last – tortilla!
After meeting our guide, Andreina, in the north of Madrid, we headed for our first morsel of the day: Spanish tortilla. We learnt about the level of precision used during every step of the process.
I didn’t realise until this trip to Spain how truly gooey tortilla can be. It’s somehow light and rich at the same time: truly delicious!
We tucked into our tortilla and coffee at historic Cafe Commercial, open since 1887. Although it’s seen wars and dictatorships in its time, one thing hasn’t changed: quality fare served to loyal local customers.
Next, we continued on foot to try…
Churros (and porras)
It wouldn’t be a Spanish food tour without churros. We visited a popular cafe that stays open all night, whether you’re craving fried dough for breakfast or after dancing. Or both.
Here, we also tried porras: thicker, fluffier churros, which I suspect are even better at absorbing rich liquid chocolate. We need a scientist to confirm.
I foolishly forgot to take a photo in my excitement (too busy making dunking videos), so here’s one I took the other day…
Honey tasting
Funnily enough, last time I took a Culinary Backstreets tour in Istanbul, we also went honey tasting. I asked if it’s their ‘thing’ but apparently not: just an example of fresh, local produce in Madrid.
At this traditional grocery store, we learnt about the production process and sampled several types. I liked the sweet, paler-coloured one. We also tried a thinner, darker variety with a more robust flavour.
I loved the sense of community at many of the vendors we visited during the tour. Staff greeted customers by name, and our guide seemed to know everyone well. For travellers just in Madrid for a few days, taking a tour is a shortcut to community.
Olive oil tasting
Because our next snack, it was time to appreciate how seriously Spaniards take olive oil. We popped into a store to sample several types and learn about the production and historical and cultural significance.
I admired how much attention goes into the bottles here: many looked like wine bottles with beautiful designs and motifs. The store had a fun feature where you could scan any bottle to read information on screen about its origins, notes and serving suggestions.
Local desserts at a historic bakery
Stopping at a modest bakery I wouldn’t have spotted, Andreina explained that this is another historic spot, open since 1873.
We tried a delicious pastry, filled with sweet custard and lightly dusted with icing sugar. I’d have never guessed the secret ingredient that Andreina revealed: a splash of white wine in the pastry!
Gildas at a local market
Next, we entered a vibey local market and admired the vibrant fruits and vegetables. I’ve never seen so many types of tomatoes before!
Like everywhere in the world, supermarkets are huge in Spain and have undercut the local markets, yet I was happy to learn that many locals still shop here. I admired the approach of having stands serving drinks and tapas right beside the fresh produce, because you can conveniently make a quick purchase when dining.
Here, we tried gildas: cocktail sticks typically loaded with a green pepper, an anchovy and an olive. They’re traditionally from San Sebastián but now served across the country, with varying ingredients such as sun-dried tomatoes, cheese and shrimps.
Local tapas feast (and vermouth!)
Here, I discovered two new favourites. One was vermouth. This fortified wine flavoured with botanicals is popular in Spain and Italy, but the Spanish version is lighter, featuring citrus and herbal notes.
Another was boquerones en vinegre: anchovies marinated in vinegar. When paired with a potato chip, they evoke the nostalgic flavour of salt and vinegar crisps, a favourite for any self-respecting Brit. They’re very salty, so might not be for everyone, but I could see them becoming a new obsession of mine.
Ham tasting & gourmet groceries
This historic grocery store was a wonderland of colours, smells and textures. I could have spent all day mesmerized by endless jars of every Spanish product in existence (probably!).
We were treated to a tasting of local cheeses (including a semi-hard goat’s cheese that might be one of my favourite cheeses ever) and cured meats from ham to fish. The butcher was incredibly knowledgeable, explaining how the flavour of the meat changes depending on the part of the animal and the drying and preparation style.
Finishing with a fancy feast
Our final stop demonstrated the diversity of Madrid’s culinary scene. Having visited centuries-old grocers, markets and cafes, we finished at a modern, experimental restaurant specialising in tasting menus.
We tried a delicious fried artichoke dish with avocado cream; high-quality beef rolled with a rich olive tapenade, and finally a creative ‘sushi’ dish using tuna and Japanese tomato. This was prepared in front of us, resembling an operation with extreme precision and dedicated tools. Not just food, but an immersive experience.
Final thoughts – is Culinary Backstreets worth it?
Sipping a glass of Spanish wine, I was truly impressed at the level of diversity and variety we’d experienced on this fantastically executed tour.
It was clear that Andreina knew not just the culinary industry and dishes inside out, but also Madrid. Like the guide I had on my Istanbul tour, she truly was a wealth of knowledge, not to mention very personable and easy to spend time with. The quality of a guide can make or break any tour, but Culinary Backstreets has never fallen short of exceptional for me so far!
I left with a better knowledge of Spanish history and culture… and a new penchant for vermouth and salty fish. What else could you need?
Useful details – FAQ
How long does the tour last? Around five hours, from 9am-2pm.
How much does the tour cost? At the time of writing, it costs €160.
Can they cater to dietary requirements? Vegetarians and pescatarians will be ok, but it’s not best suited to vegans or gluten-free travellers. Alcohol is served during the tour.
What neighbourhoods will you visit? The tour starts in Chamberí and visits other areas, including Trafalgar and Malasaña.
Is it good for solo female travellers? Yes, it’s a great option for solo travellers because you get to make new friends and try lots of different dishes, something that’s logistically harder to do when travelling alone.
Here’s the link again to the tour I took.
Thanks for reading!
Note – I was hosted on this Culinary Backstreets tour, but all opinions are my own.
