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I’ve just spent the last three weeks travelling solo around Uzbekistan, a destination that had been on my radar for years!
It was around 2019 that I first remember lusting over photos of this incredibly beautiful destination I’d recently started seeing online.
Having now visited, I’m better versed on the history: the country opened to tourism in 2017 after dictator Islam Karimov died (he’d ruled since the Soviet Union collapsed in 1989). This explains why it wasn’t on my radar during my first big Asia trip in 2015. Nowadays, I’m meeting travellers visiting the Stans on their way back to Europe from Asia.
I’m so thrilled I’ve finally made it to this part of the world. It’s getting VERY popular, which makes it easy to navigate, but crowded in peak season. I recently met a traveller on his second trip, having first visited in 2017. He said it’s a different world, after being the only Western traveller he met on the first trip.
These days, you can’t expect an unexplored paradise but you CAN expect a fantastic trip. Here’s everything I know, based on my recent experiences…
Is Uzbekistan safe for solo female travel?
Absolutely! This is one of the safest destinations I’ve visited. Far safer than major cities in Europe where there’s usually pickpocketing and cat-calling.
During three weeks in Uzbekistan, I never felt unsafe. I freely checked directions whilst on the street, something that sadly resulted in the loss of my phone in South America!
I think it comes, in part, from Uzbekistan not being especially patriarchal. In some destinations I’ve visited, like India and Egypt, it still feels like a man’s world, and I occasionally felt uneasy at hotels where I was the only woman around.
In Uzbekistan, women work in the service industry and there’s generally a gender balance in public spaces. As a solo woman, this puts me at ease.
What about if it’s your first time travelling solo?
I still don’t think you’ll encounter any problems.
The main issue you may face is that, in rural areas and local environments like markets, very little English is spoken, and it’s difficult to pick up Uzbek. This could be overwhelming as a first-time solo traveller. However, you’ll probably be visiting tourist cities like Bukhara and Samarkand, so I don’t think this will be a big problem.
Best things about visiting Uzbekistan
- STUNNING – truly, the architecture is madness. Even though my expectations were high, they were exceeded. If you love history and architecture (or Instagram, let’s be honest), you’re going to be in aesthetic HEAVEN.
- Safe and friendly – you don’t need to worry about much. It’s safe to walk alone at night. You may get the odd stare from men, but this can happen anywhere on earth.
- Affordable – hostels including a generous breakfast typically cost $10-15 a night, trains between major cities cost under $20 depending on the class, and a hearty meal in a restaurant costs around $5. Solo travellers don’t need to worry about the cost of taking taxis alone: the Yandex app charges around $2 per 20 minutes.
- Easy to meet other travellers – even though I wouldn’t say the hostels are world-class (compared to places like Thailand), the infrastructure has improved rapidly over the last few years, so there are plenty of decent bases where you’ll easily meet fellow travellers. Keep reading for my hostel suggestions.
Any downsides?
- Organisation can be ‘relaxed‘ (AKA disorganised). I booked a transfer from Nukus that was meant to bring me to Khiva by 9pm but we arrived at midnight because the company forgot to book it. The last-minute driver doubled up as a delivery driver, stopping all over the place. You need patience and enough time for delays!
- Similarity of destinations – I LOVED the stunning blue architecture, but I found Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand quite similar. I hear good things about the Fergana Valley, but I chose to get my nature fix in neighbouring countries, Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan.
- A bit TOO perfect? – I sometimes found ancient monuments looked like they’d been built yesterday. Everything felt immaculately clean and somewhat ‘Disney-fied’. I found it difficult to experience raw, authentic local life, as I have in some places. Again, I hear the Fergana Valley is a good option for this.
- The Aral Sea excursion isn’t so solo-friendly as you pay per car (up to four passengers) rather than per person. However, I managed to meet some other solo female travellers at my hostel in Khiva and we went together which was a lot of fun. Don’t rule it out because you’re travelling alone.
Any scams to be aware of?
Although it didn’t happen to me, the only negative issue I heard of solo travellers experiencing was their train getting cancelled last minute (after arriving at the station) and having to split extortionate taxis with other travellers, since trains often book out days in advance.
One traveller told me the taxi stopped at a lunch location and she was charged $25 for a simple meal that wasn’t worth more than $5. So, perhaps have a Plan B in case your train is cancelled, and always check prices before ordering, especially if a menu with prices isn’t provided.
Best season to visit Uzbekistan
This isn’t a destination where you can rock up any time of year! The seasons will impact your trip significantly. Here’s a summary:
Spring (March-May) and autumn/fall (September-November) are peak season with the most temperate weather. Of course, this also means crowds. You should book in advance to get the best deals on accommodation, and so trains don’t fill up.
Summer (June to August) sees temperatures of 40-50 degrees Celsius, so is considered low season. The exception is early June, when I visited. It was hot (around 35°) but possible to sightsee early morning and late afternoon. There were barely any crowds, so I actually enjoyed visiting in this season.
I timed my trip this way because I wanted to hike in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan afterwards, but they’re too cold until late June/early July, so I didn’t want to visit the region any earlier.
Winter (November-February) – with temperatures dropping to 0 degrees, this is not a popular time to visit. But if you’re from Europe, you can probably handle the cold, and you’ll definitely escape the crowds!
Where to go in Uzbekistan
Here are all the places I visited during my 3-week trip…
Tashkent
Although it wasn’t the highlight of my trip to Uzbekistan, I liked Tashkent, potentially as my expectations had been low… I’d heard other travellers say it wasn’t even worth going.
No, it doesn’t display the same stunning architecture as cities like Bukhara, but I still found it captivating with its mix of Soviet and Islamic details. I loved riding the Tashkent metro (known as one of the world’s most beautiful), adorned with nods to Soviet space exploration and Uzbek/Islamic myth.
I’d suggest spending two days in Tashkent, starting with a free walking tour with Donat from Guruwalk. We got to make our own bread with Uzbek breadmakers in Chorsu Bazaar, an impressive market complex (worth visiting whether or not you take a walking tour).
Donat also offers other donation-based tours focusing on the Soviet details and street art. I wish I’d had time for the latter as I’m a street art fiend!
Where to stay: I liked Drimin by Sunrise Caravan in the safe Mirabad area close to nice cafes and quality restaurants. I stayed in a 4-bed female dorm for $13 a night, including breakfast and coffee. It’s just a 20-minute drive from the airport, costing around $1.50 with Yandex.
Where to eat: there are countless places from fine dining to affordable local fare and modern brunch cafes. One of my most memorable meals was at Besh Qozon, serving only the national dish of plov. Pilaf rice, meat, carrots, sultanas and abundant oil simmer in a HUGE pan. Robot waiters bring out your food, highlighting the blend of tradition and tech in Central Asia.
Khiva
This well-preserved city in Western Uzbekistan is a gem. Some travellers skip it if they’re in a rush because of its location. Admittedly, the attractions you see here are similar to those in Bukhara and Samarkand. However, it’s unique with its Walled City and acts as a jumping-off point for side trips to the Aral Sea.
Despite the 15-hour overnight train ride from Tashkent (I actually slept surprisingly well), I was glad I included Khiva in my itinerary. It’s so beautiful with its minarets and rooftop restaurants, serving regional dishes not found elsewhere in Uzbekistan.
Unlike other cities in Uzbekistan where you pay to visit individual attractions, it works a little differently in Khiva. You buy a ticket for the walled city for around $15, valid for two consecutive days, which includes entry to almost all attractions inside. You can’t enter the main gate without a ticket but you can via the back gate if you simply want to wander around inside.
The two Khiva attractions not included in the ticket are Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum (an extra 50 Uzbek Som and well worth it) and climbing Islam Khodja Minaret (an extra 100 Uzbek Som and not really worth it in my opinion).
Where to stay: the best hostel is Central Park Hostel with a social feel and a generous breakfast. The main guy is lovely and can help organise Aral Sea tours. His parents own the restaurant next door where you can take a cooking class for $50 (split between up to three people). We had fun making and eating the typical Khiva dishes.
What & where to eat in Khiva: typical dishes include shivit oshi (green noodles infused with dill) and dumplings stuffed with pumpkin or egg. Some atmospheric rooftop restaurants to watch sunset include Sultan, Arxi Terrace and Terrassa. Don’t miss Gulshan Market for a local vibe, fresh fruit and epic cakes for bargain prices.
Side trip to the Aral Sea
Although it entails a lot of driving, I valued the chance to visit the fascinating site of one of the world’s worst ecological disasters. The Aral Sea was once our fourth-largest lake, providing a livelihood for thriving fishing communities.
When the Soviet Union diverted feeding rivers to power cotton factories (the most important export of the era), the Aral Sea shrank by 90% within 40 years. Eerie abandoned ships now sit on dry land miles from water.
How to visit the Moynaq ghost ships: travel from Khiva to Nukus by bus or shared taxi. From here, you can take a bus to Moynaq and return the same day.
How to visit the remainder of the Aral Sea: as you need a 4×4, it’s only possible to visit as part of a 2-day tour. I booked one from Nukus for $170pp (based on three people sharing), including Moynaq ghost ships and sleeping in a yurt on the banks of the sea. Expensive but worth it!
I booked this at Central Park Hostel in Khiva where I met some other solo female travellers to split the costs with. The hostel organised a transfer from Khiva to Nukus for us, where we stayed in a hostel the night before the tour.
Tip – allow time in Nukus to visit the State Museum of Art, home to 82,000 works of Russian avant-garde art (the world’s second-largest collection with a fascinating story).
Bukhara
The third city I visited in Uzbekistan is just as stunning as Khiva and Samarkand.
Highlights of the UNESCO-protected city include the Ark of Bukhara (a ticket is valid all day, so come back to watch sunset from the terrace), Kalan Minaret (the only original building untouched after Genghis Khan’s raids), Po-i-Kalyan (the main square) and Bolo Hauz Mosque.
Another gorgeous spot is Labi Hovuz where old madrasas circle a peaceful lake. There are outdoor restaurants here but they’re pricey and poor quality, so I recommend just grabbing an ice cream or coffee and eating elsewhere.
On opposite ends of town, you’ll find Chor Minor Monument featured on the front of the Lonely Planet book, and Ismail Samani Mausoleum, the intricate resting place of the Samanid Empire’s king. A quirky find is Bukhara Photo Gallery down a small side street, run by a local family. The bustling, colourful Central Bazaar is also worth a visit.
The Bukhara monuments don’t offer much information, so I recommend doing a free walking tour (find these via GuruWalk) to add context.
Where to stay: I stayed at Derwish Hostel and can confirm it’s a comfy base with female dorms, a kitchen and excellent breakfasts.
Getting there: by fast train, Bukhara is as little as 1.5 hours from Samarkand, 3 hours from Khiva and 4 hours from Tashkent (longer with the cheaper, slow train).
Samarkand
Samarkand is similar to Bukhara and Khiva with its Silk Road heritage, stunning blue architecture and ancient madrasas (Islamic schools teaching maths, science, astronomy, etc).
Registan Square at the heart of the city is simply stunning. A ticket lasts all day so I suggest visiting in the morning or evening (or both) and sitting outside to watch the impressive evening light show. Another place not to miss is Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (pictured above) with stunning tombs thought to be the resting place of the Prophet Muhammad’s cousin.
The Amir Temur Mausoleum is also very impressive, although a bit of a walk from the other Samarkand attractions. Luckily, you can use the Yandex taxi app to get between attractions quickly and cheaply.
Another fun excursion was taking a village tour with Old Radio Hostel (if you stay elsewhere, book it online). We visited the home of our guide’s uncle, where we saw how locals preserve food for the winter, such as pickling vegetables and making cherries into jam and compote. After sunset on the farm, we had a home-cooked dinner. I also got to ask loads of questions about the culture.
Samarkand is an essential stop if you’re crossing the border to Tajikistan next. I’ll be posting about my adventures there soon.
Where to stay: choose Old Radio Hostel for dorms with aircon and privacy curtains, plus 2-course daily breakfasts. They organise excursions like the village tour mentioned.
Where to eat: one of my favourite restaurants is this hidden gem pictured below. Ibrahim Xoja Restaurant is located in a local’s garden (follow the Google pin linked). For around $5, I had a feast of lagman (beef noodles), a manti dumpling, sides and tea.
For a heathy/vegetarian meal (something you don’t get much of in Central Asia), don’t miss Samarkind Cafe. They do great coffee and cakes, too. For an upscale restaurant with the best rooftop views in town, I suggest Emirhan. I met a fellow blogger friend here for a catch-up. We spent about $25 each (a lot for Uzbekistan) but it was a lovely night with tasty food.
Cost of Uzbekistan travel
My average daily spend was about $45 a day based on staying mainly in hostels, eating local food, cooking occasionally (usually for health reasons: shopping at supermarkets can be more expensive than eating at modest restaurants) and traveling by train.
Here are some average prices (USD) based on my trip. It’s worth noting I visited in June, just outside of peak season, so your costs may be higher from March-May.
- Bunk in a hostel – around $10 including breakfast
- Private room – starting from $15
- Whole apartment – from $30
- 20-minute taxi ride on the Yandex app – $1-2
- Meal in a local restaurant – $4-7.
Recap of the best hostels in Uzbekistan
Here are the places I personally stayed and can vouch for…
- Tashkent – Drimin by Sunrise Caravan – in the safe, residential Mirabad area, you’re surrounded by leafy streets and nice cafes, plus authentic Asian food like Chinese, Korean and Vietnamese. The staff are friendly, and there are cosy 4-bed female dorms with aircon. However, the breakfast is a bit random sometimes featuring pasta and mashed potatoes!
- Khiva – Central Park Hostel – the young guy running the place is lovely and speaks great English. He’ll help you organise excursions to the Aral Sea. The breakfast of eggs, bread, homemade apricot jam and apricot cake is delicious. The rooms are just okay: single beds rather than bunks, and there are no windows in the female dorm.
- Bukhara – Derwish Hostel – the female dorm is spacious with effective aircon and privacy curtains on each bunk. The breakfast that changes daily is very generous, usually with two courses.
- Samarkand – Old Radio Hostel has the best reviews of any hostel in town and a great breakfast featuring a savoury course followed by pancakes and jam. The staff are friendly, and I went on a fun village tour ($40) with Yusuf, concluding with dinner at his mum’s home. My only complaint was that the 8-bed dorm only has one bathroom, which is usually occupied.
Getting around Uzbekistan
By train – this is your main option. There are fast trains and slow trains at different price points, best booked on the Uzbekistan rail website. If you have any trouble booking, try 12go instead.
Most of my journeys were in cabins with bunk beds, apart from the 1.5-hour ride from Bukhara to Samarkand which was a fast train with seats rather than bunks.
All my journeys cost around $15, although one was 15 hours and one was 1.5 hours, but I think this was because I had bought the lowest class for one and a fast-train ticket for the other. Generally, I booked my tickets a few days before and bought whatever was available. In peak season, you may need to book further in advance.
Taxi (within cities) – the Yandex app is a godsend! A 20-minute ride costs around $1.50.
Metro (Tashkent) – not only is this beautiful but it’s very efficient. You don’t need to buy a travel card; simply tap your bank card to pay. Each journey costs around 12 cents. A bonus is that it has aircon, which is heavenly in the hot summer months.
In smaller cities, I mainly walked everywhere. I saw local buses but never needed to use one. Overall, its very easy to navigate around Uzbekistan.
Staying online with SIM cards
Uzbekistan has the cheapest and most generous data plans I have seen in my life (well, until I got to Kyrgyzstan). I got a package of 180 GB at the airport with Ucell. It was an eSIM but you can opt for a physical SIM if you prefer.
Other networks include Beeline and Uzmobile. However, I can only vouch for Ucell, which worked well for me.
I don’t think having a pre-bought eSIM is especially worth it here, but if you do want one for any reason, I always recommend Airalo.
Do you need travel insurance?
Of course! Even though Uzbekistan is a safe country, travel insurance is the one thing I’ll never scrimp on. You could have a health emergency or accident anywhere.
I recommend True Traveller which I use myself. I pay around £30 (€40) a month when getting a year’s plan. As well as pre-existing health conditions, they’ll cover you if you’re already travelling and/or don’t yet have your flight home booked. The claim process is easy; I’ve done it twice and received the money within days. Click to get a quote.
True Traveller is just for European residents (including the UK) so, for other nationalities, I recommend Hey Mundo and for long-term digital nomad travellers, I suggest Safety Wing.
Final thoughts on solo travel in Uzbekistan
I had a wonderful time in Uzbekistan.
It’s touristic enough now that there are fantastic accommodation options, including hostels for budget solo travellers where you can make friends. I met some lovely people in Uzbekistan and found that it attracts an adventurous, culturally interested demographic of travellers.
On the downside, I did find Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand all quite similar, and didn’t find Uzbekistan had the diversity of some destinations. Also, it felt very polished, somehow a bit too ‘perfect’. As a rapidly emerging destination, it seems the country has a clear vision, wanting everything grand and pristine.
Overall, I found Uzbekistan not especially rugged or adventurous (but perhaps this is my fault for not visiting the Fergana Valley), which is often what I look for in a destination. But, if you want somewhere safe, friendly, affordable and absolutely stunning, you’re onto a winner! It couldn’t be safer or easier for solo female travel.
Thanks for reading!
