Bohemian Bucharest: A Food Tour with Urban Adventures

I loved a lot of things about Romania from the striking scenery to the quaint towns of Transylvania, the legends of Dracula, and the friendly locals who welcomed me to their country.

For our first culinary treat of the tour, we arrived at a chilled-out garden cafe that I’d never have spotted myself.

Hidden away in the backstreets and more than a stone’s throw from the touristic restaurants of the Old Town, Dianei 4 has an unusual history. Once a secret police headquarters during communist rule, it’s now quite the opposite: an artsy hang out frequented by young Romanians.

We tucked into tasty ‘peasant platters’ of chunky bread, spicy salami and local white cheese similar to feta.

The best bit was the rich zacuscă, an aubergine and tomato spread that’s popular with Romanians all over the country. I’d heard it mentioned several times but not seen it on any restaurants menus so I was thrilled to try it during my final day in the country.

Abandoned mansions

One of the best bits of the Urban Adventures tour was getting immersed in the backstreets of Bucharest. As I mentioned before, I hadn’t been wild about the city centre but I also hadn’t known where the hidden gems were hiding. Having Bogdan, a lifelong local, to take us around was invaluable when it came to seeing more of the city.

I couldn’t believe how many incredible, extravagant buildings in Bucharest sit empty and abandoned. During communist rule, many businesses were forced to close and buildings became repurposed.

The following decades saw turbulent financial times for Romania and subsequently, some parts of the city remain uncared for.

Little Armenia & orthodox churches

To truly escape the crowds of Bucharest and see some old-style architecture, a trip to the Armenian Quarter is a must. I’d never even heard of this place, nor realised the Romanian capital was home to a large Armenian community.

Many of the historical sights of Bucharest were sadly destroyed by the communist government so I’m thrilled this gorgeous part of town has survived. If you visit the area yourself, check out the Armenian Church with its gorgeous domed roof and religious artwork.

Before heading to our next foodie stop, we also stopped at Biserica Olari din București, an Orthodox Church in the northeast of Bucharest.

We ducked inside to find a breathtakingly detailed interior awaiting us, quite unlike anything I’ve seen in Christian and Catholic churches before.

Bucharest’s biggest market

Next, we arrived at Obar Market, the biggest local market in Bucharest. To get there, we hopped on a local tram which looked straight outta the ’80s. I love the old school details that exist around Romania.

The market was a great experience, overflowing with colourful local produce and sights, sounds and smells.

This was no tourist market: in fact, I’m pretty sure we were the only foreigners there. Instead, locals shopped for groceries including juicy sour cherries, giant piles of walnuts and pungent cloves of garlic.

Mici, beer & a picnic to remember

After several hours on our feet, we sat down to a feast from the local market. We paired our spread of fresh veggies, cheese and fruit with a plate of mici, the most famous Romanian food. These skinless sausages are unbelievably rich and moreish. I definitely could have eaten an additional five!

We also got to sample some Romanian beer and a shot of palinca, a strong type of local brandy.

Doughnuts for dessert

There was one final treat before the tour ended: a warm type of doughnut only found in this part of Romania. Indeed, I hadn’t seen this variety during my 2 weeks around Transylvania or Timisoara.

The warm fried dough was twisted into a knot and served with a sprinkling of powder sugar. The perfect end to an adventurous day in Bucharest!

Booking a tour with Urban Adventures

Do you fancy discovering the hidden gems of Bucharest and sampling some excellent food? If so, I’d highly recommend the Bohemian Bucharest Markets & Mahallas tour. Click this link to book it for yourself!