Complete Dharamshala Travel Guide: Mcleod Ganj & Little Tibet

Welcome to my Mcleod Ganj and Dharamsala travel guide! It’s been six weeks since my visit and it still seems surreal. Snowy peaks, swooping eagles and Tibetan temples? It’s just not how you picture India, is it?

The weeks since have been full of busy cities, scalding desert and equally scalding temperatures. During the rest of my solo trip to India, nothing has been remotely comparable to this misty, mountainous region in the Himalayas.

MCLEOD GANJ ESSENTIALS

India Lonely Planet

Accommodation: Booking.com / Hostelworld

Getting around: bus / train (12Go)

Travel insurance: True Traveller (European travellers) / Hey Mundo (other nationalities) / Safety Wing (digital nomads)

Quick background

Dharamsala was a British hill station during the colonial era. Once the British left and it was abandoned, it became occupied by fleeing Tibetans including the Dalai Lama who is now based here.

Today, they’re joined by tourists who flock to this popular area, particularly during the summer when apparently it’s packed out.

Also known as the Tsuglagkhang Complex, this little religious site in Mcleod Ganj is worth a visit. It won’t be the most incredible temple you see in India but it’s certainly different; nothing like the Hindu and Sikh temples you find elsewhere.

The Dalai Lama set up this temple when he fled Tibet and still visits to give talks. As well as an important pilgrimage site for many, it’s free for tourists to visit.

Spin prayer wheels, listen to Tibetan gongs and soak up the mountain views.

It’s a peaceful place minus the monkeys that make a racket jumping on the roof. No cameras are allowed inside the main temple but it’s gorgeous with really colourful, unusual artwork on the walls.

See if the Dalia Lama is holding talks

As I mentioned, the temple is still the practising headquarters of the Dalai Lama so you should see if your visit lines up with one of his teachings.

I had one booked and missed it due to being sick but I luckily made it to his official ceremony the next day. This is where people come to give offerings and pay their respects while free food and drink are handed out to guests.

The teachings are more interesting than the ceremony, however, and get translated by FM radio into a few different languages (obviously you won’t be able to understand the Dalai Lama unless you’re fluent in Tibetan!).

Check the dates on the Dalai Lama website.

For a mini hike in Mcleod Ganj, take a walk over to Bhagsu Falls which is up in the Bhagsu Nag area of town.

This takes about 40 minutes to walk to from Mcleod Ganj and you can stop off for coffee and mountain scenery at Open Heart Cafe, a good rest point with lovely views.

Bhagsu Falls isn’t the biggest or most amazing waterfall ever, but it’s a nice thing to do in Mcleod Ganj for a dose of fresh mountain air. I befriended some goats, monkeys and selfie-loving locals on the way.

If you visit Dharamsala in high season and feel energetic, you can experience more of the countryside. The Triund trek is the most popular, taking 3-4 hours and covering 9kms. You could obviously do this independently as a day trip but it might also be fun to do as an overnight camping trip. I saw this offered in Mcleod Ganj by lots of tourism offices.

Book your Triund trek on TripAdvisor

Meditation at Tushita

A peaceful spot in the mountains, Tushita Meditation Centre offers all sorts of retreats, as well as Buddhism and meditation courses. I was interested in the guided meditation drop-in session which runs daily at 9am (apart from Sundays).

I was gutted it was closed during my visit as I had been keen to try meditation in the Himalayas. I’d recommend giving the centre a call on 89881 60988 in advance as the website doesn’t always seem to be updated. It’s a 25-minute walk uphill so you wouldn’t want to be turned away.

If you go to Bhagsu Falls, stop at this temple site on the way. It’s dedicated to Lord Shiva and Nag, the snake god. There’s a swimming pool at the bottom where locals come to wash and pray. Not a place for you to have a dip, sorry!

Tibet World

I didn’t do this myself but I heard people talking about volunteering at Tibet World. It would be great to learn more about Tibet and (I imagine) a rewarding cause to get involved with.

It seems you can bring any skills you want, even copywriting, web design or language teaching. Check out the Tibet World website.

Dharamsala Cricket Stadium

Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association Stadium is often voted the most beautiful cricket stadium in the world thanks to its mountain backdrop.

I could spy it from my balcony at Ram Yoga House so didn’t bother taking a taxi all the way to Dharamsala. The photos on the Insta tag do look pretty immense, though!

Best food and cafes in Mcleod Ganj

One of the best things to do in Mcleod Ganj is eat!

Well, maybe cafe-hop is what I mean. While you can eat loads of tasty Indian food in Mcleod Ganj, you can also get your fill of anything Western and indulgent if you’re in need of a break from curry.

It’s also the ideal place to try Tibetan food, so save space for moreish momos and warming noodle soups.

Next in my Dharamshala travel guide, the best places to eat and drink in Mcleod Ganj…

Illiterati Cafe

Hands-down the prettiest cafe in Mcleod Ganj, this bookshop and restaurant is every Instagrammers dream. The food is all Western but it’s very well done.

If you’re not bothered about ordering food you could at home (though who doesn’t love pancakes?), you could just come for coffee and gaze at the views.

There are so many books which you can sit and read so it would be the perfect place for a ‘me’ day.

Usually Italian food in Asia isn’t amazing but this was very good! The list of ravioli and gnocchi dishes goes on and on, plus there’s a woodfire oven for pizzas.

Blackcurrant cheesecake and banoffee pie are on the menu for dessert. Plus, how stunning are these views?

For Tibetan food in Mcleod Ganj you have no shortage of options but this is renowned as the best. The Tibetan community eat here which means more to me than any TripAdvisor review!

Tibet Kitchen is a modest restaurant with a focus on hearty food at reasonable prices.

I had the cheese and veg momos which were absolutely divine and a steaming bowl of thukpa noodle soup. Honestly, I didn’t find this overly flavoursome but maybe I’ve been spoiled by too much amazing pho in Vietnam.

The first cafe in Mcleod Ganj I visited was Crepe Pancake Hut. Looking out over the mountains with a Nutella and banana pancake and a honey lemon ginger tea was bliss!

I soon found out every other cafe in Mcleod Ganj had comparable views and food but still, this is a lovely spot and never too busy.

Moonpeak Espresso

For the best coffee in Mcleod Ganj, come down to this cosy cafe. I spent a few afternoons working at Moonpeak Espresso as the Wi-Fi was decent. They serve tasty Italian sandwiches and Indian favourites like Thali and curry.

Those with a sweet tooth need to head to Woeser pronto.

Aside from the gooey chocolate cake, the best thing about this cafe in Mcleod Ganj is that they make the Dalai Lama’s birthday cake each year. Last year it weighed 33 stone and you can see photos of it on the wall! I want it.

Since I’ve now told you about pasta, Tibetan food and cake, you’re probably not surprised that there’s Japanese food in multicultural little Mcleod Ganj.

This vegetarian restaurant is run by Japanese owners so you can bet it’s authentic. Sushi is served on Tuesdays and Fridays which was initially a disappointment since I visited on a Monday, but I couldn’t complain when I paid only 170 rupees for okonomiyaki and miso soup.

At Lung Ta, there are endless bookshelves to browse and an outdoor terrace. It would be a lovely place to spend an afternoon, post-hiking!